Caring for Fine, Curly Hair: The Dos and Don'ts

Fine curly hair is definitely one of the most misunderstood hair types out there. What works for COARSE CURLY hair will leave your fine curls weighed down and stringy, and what works for straight hair will make your hair a frizzy mess. But if you ever look in the mirror and think, “I’m doing a curl routine, why won't my curls look how I want them to?” don’t worry, you're not alone. As a professional hairstylist, I see fine, curly hair types making the same mistakes every day, and I know what works. Here are some expert tips you need to slay the curly hair game, no matter what.

The Struggle of Fine, Thin Curly Hair

It's a common misconception that fine hair means you don't have a lot of hair. That's not the case at all, so let’s break it down. There are 3 characteristics that are used to talk about hair, they are:

1. Density - How Much Hair You Have

• Refers to how many strands grow on your head, not how thick each strand is.
• Think of it as crowded vs. sparse:
  • High density: lots of hair per square inch, feels full or heavy.
  • Low density: fewer strands, lots of scalp exposure
  • Medium density: most common, scalp peeks through 

2. Coarseness (or Strand Diameter) - How Thick Each Strand Is

This is the width of a single hair fiber

• Fine: smaller than a sewing thread, delicate, gets limp or weighed down easily.
• Medium: average strand size, versatile, and holds most styles well.
• Coarse: thicker strand, feels strong but can resist color or styling.

Tip: Roll a strand between your fingers, think of it in relation to a piece of thread: the smaller, the finer.

3. Texture (or Pattern) — How the Hair Naturally Grows and Moves

Describes the shape or curl pattern of the strand: straight, wavy, curly, or coily.

• Straight: smooth cuticle, reflects shine easily.
• Wavy: subtle “S” shape, can fluctuate with humidity.
• Curly: defined spirals, more volume, and shrinkage.
• Coily: tight curls or zig-zag pattern, most prone to dryness and shrinkage.

Fine hair actually relates to the thickness of the individual hair strand and NOT how much hair you have. You can absolutely have fine hair and a lot of it (known as high density) or not a lot (low-density hair).

Many people also think that ALL curly hair is thick when this isn't true at all. There are SO many different curly hair types. And what works for one type of curly hair won't work for another. So if you've been following the Curly Girl Method to a T, but your hair just doesn't look as voluminous and curly as the girlies on TikTok, chances are, you're doing the wrong things for your curls.

Thin, curly hair is prone to getting heavy and weighed down, or not having enough definition. Since it's thinner than other types of hair, it's also more fragile, which means it needs extra TLC to thrive.

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How to Treat Fine, Curly Hair

I know you want the beautiful, bouncy curls you see all over #curltok. And although TikTok is FULL of great advice for curly hair, it might just not work for fine hair. Lathering your ends in hair masks, covering your roots in heavy curl creams, and not washing your hair for more than a week at a time simply won't work for you. You need to know which tips are going to benefit your hair and which won't. Here are some of the dos and don'ts you need to know when caring for fine, curly hair.

Don’t Use Heavy Creams and Conditioners

If you have curly hair, you've probably heard you need to crank up the moisture. So you've likely purchased those thick conditioning creams, hair masks, and leave-ins full of oils and butters to help nourish your hair and get rid of frizz. But the truth is, if you have fine or thin curly hair, those heavy creams and conditioners just aren't going to work for you. They'll weigh down your curls, make your hair look and feel greasy, and zap away your confidence.

Use the Right Products

If you're a fine curly hair girlie, you NEED the right products - especially if you live an active lifestyle. Ditch the thick leave-ins and go for a lightweight leave-in layered with a mousse or gel that has more hold to give you those defined curls you'll be OBSESSED with. Here are my recommendations:

Refresh Fine Curls On Day 2 or After Gym

You need the Sweaty Hair Refresher to give your hair definition and texture WITHOUT weighing it down. This lightweight foam is MADE for curly hair types. It has deodorizing enzymes that neutralize sweat and odors, keeping your hair feeling fresh between washes or after gym sessions. It has amino acids that strengthen your hair, reducing split ends and frizz.

To Get Rid of Greasy Roots

If you have fine curly hair that gets oily fast, Skip Day is an amazing dry shampoo alternative that soaks up excess oil and gives you volume to the Gods. Trust me, I could go on and on about how traditional dry shampoo is bad for your hair... but for now, I'll just say that Skip Day gives you that refresh you need WITHOUT the white cast or brittleness. And the beauty of it being a wet spray means it can go directly on your hair after the gym, sweat and all. 

All you have to do is spray it at the roots and massage it into your hair. You can either leave it to air dry or hit it with heat on a low setting for sky-high volume and just-shampooed feel.

Don’t Deep Condition Too Much

If you have curly hair, you've probably heard that you need to moisturize, moisturize, moisturize! And while you DO want to moisturize, fine curly-haired girls don't need to deep condition to the extent of other curly hair types. Rather than giving you defined curls, deep conditioning too much will weigh down your hair and make it look stringy or fly away. If you have fine hair, you only need to deep condition 1 - 2 times a month.

Use a gentle, clarifying shampoo and a lightweight conditioner ONLY on the ends of your hair.

Do Diffuse For Volume

Although you don't want to use too much heat on your hair (heat damage can lead to frizz!), diffusing is a great way to achieve MAJOR volume. Use a cup diffuser on a low heat setting to gently dry your hair. Diffusing great is because it defines your natural curls and gives you minimal frizz.

TIP: Use lightweight styling products like a mousse or gel before diffusing. You can even use Sweaty Hair Refresher to finger coil and define those curls!

Do Detangle Your Hair in the Shower

Here's the thing: you NEVER want to brush your hair after the shower. This is going to make your hair frizzy and leave those curls looking less defined. Instead, you should detangle your hair in the shower.

BUT: thin curly hair is fragile and never more so than when it's wet. To avoid breakage, detangle your hair gently with a wide-tooth comb or your fingers.

For more tips, check out my article on how to get rid of frizz.

Don’t Touch Your Hair Too Much

Nothing beats those silky soft curls you just want to run your fingers through. BUT DON'T DO IT! Once you've set your curls, don't touch them too much during the day, as this is just going to separate the curls and cause frizz. And whatever you do, don't brush it! Rather than giving curly-haired Queen, you'll be giving Anne Hathaway in The Princess Diaries.

This also goes for when you're air drying your hair. Once you've run the product through the curls, leave them be. This is the only way to maintain your natural curl pattern.

Do Wash Your Hair 1 - 2 Times a Week

Fine curly hair can get greasier quicker than thicker curls. You may wonder why your curly friends can go four days with oil-free roots while yours look damp by day two.

That said, you don't want to wash your hair every day. So, how often should you wash your hair? Aim for 1 - 2 times a week - even when it comes to refreshing sweaty hair after those intense gym sessions! Over-washing your hair messes with your scalp's microbiome and can lead to dryness, breakage, and ironically, cause your scalp to start overproducing oil to compensate.

Don't Co-Wash!

Since you're a curly girl, you'll likely have heard of co-washing. It's an alternative to washing your hair every day and giving your hair the nourishment and moisture it needs. And it's great. For thick curls, that is. You'll either use a co-washing shampoo, which is HIGHLY moisturizing, or use conditioner in place of shampoo. But if you have fine or thin curly hair, this won't lock in much-needed moisture - it'll weigh your curls down and make your hair look greasy.

Skip co-washing and refresh your thin curly hair with an oil-absorbing spray like Skip Day.

Do Use a Gentle Clarifying Shampoo

Clarifying your hair is super important. Use a gentle but clarifying shampoo once a month to get rid of any product buildup. This will stop your hair from getting weighed down by any product residue and give you more volume and definition.

Fine Curly Hair Care and Styling Tips From a Professional Stylist

Here are some styling techniques I recommend:

• Use a microfiber towel or t-shirt right out of the shower. This will minimize frizz. Gently squeeze the excess water from your hair - and I mean gently!
• Style your hair upside down or sideways, as this will give you a natural lift.
• Only apply styling products mid-length to ends. You don't want to weigh down your hair!
• Use the praying hands method to apply product. This will spread it evening throughout the hair.
• Sleep with your hair gathered on the top of your head using a scrunchie. AKA - pineapple style.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why Is My Curly Hair So Fine?

Fine curly hair can be caused by a few reasons, such as:

• Genetics - If your parents have fine, low-density curls, chances are you'll have them too.
• Environmental factors - Exposing your hair to chlorine, salt, pollution, and even harsh hair products like dry shampoos can weaken the hair shaft.

How Do I Know if My Curly Hair is Fine?

• Strand Thickness: Fine hair doesn't refer to how much hair you have; it refers specifically to the diameter or thickness of the individual hair strand.
• It Gets Weighed Down Easily: You'll find that heavy products don't suit fine curly hair at all. Heavy conditioners, creams, oils, and butters will make the hair look greasy and weigh it down.
• Lacks Lasting Definition/Volume: If your waves and curls don't last more than a few hours past wash day, or if you struggle with volume, your hair might be weighed down or over-moisturized, which is a common problem for fine hair.
• More Oily: Fine hair tends to get greasy or oily much quicker than highly textured hair.
• More Fragile: Fine curly hair is described as being thinner and more fragile, which means it'll need extra attention and care.

Does Fine Curly Hair Need Layers?

Fine, curly hair can often feel flat, but a layered haircut can make all the difference, giving it more volume and lift.

Conclusion

Fine curly hair is a different beast, and it needs a gentle touch. What works for most people with curly hair won't work for you, and that's just the truth of the matter. But once you DO know what works for you, just watch your hair transform. It will no longer feel greasy and weighed down by products that are too heavy, and you won't be sitting endlessly scrolling through TikTok and wondering, Why don't my curls look like that? Try my tips above and take your hair from frizzy to fabulous.